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Monday, January 24, 2011

Paint me beautiful! Brushstrokes and high volume make Christian Dior haute couture show a work of art

His haute couture shows are one of the most highly-anticipated events in the fashion calendar. And John Galliano didn't disappoint with his latest collection for Christian Dior.

Inspired by the illustrations of René Gruau, whose work was synonymous with the French fashion house from 1947 onwards, the elaborate creations had a distinctly painterly feel.

Indeed some even had almost feather-like brushstrokes painted on them, while others featured cascading layers of feathered fabric.

Christian Dior couture
Christian Dior couture

Homage: John Galliano paid tribute to illustrator René Gruau in his latest haute couture collection for Christian Dior, which took place in Paris this afternoon

But it was the voluminous shapes that had the most impact on the catwalk. From the geometric Forties and Fifties silhouettes to the drama of the bubble-hem dresses, every piece was almost sculptural in its precision.

Razor sharp pleats fell around the models' legs in layers of varying lengths to reveal the contrasting colour of the dress lining beneath.

The limited palette of vibrant red, black, teal and taupe also added to the drama, and a catwalk lit in the same colours set the scene.

Christian Dior couture
Christian Dior couture

Painterly: The elaborate haute couture creations referenced Gruau's watercolour illustrations with degradé fabrics and black brushstroke details

Christian Dior couture
Christian Dior couture
Christian Dior couture

Works of art: From the geometric Forties and Fifties silhouettes to the drama of the bubble-hem dresses, every piece was almost sculptural in its precision

Galliano had even cleverly referenced Gruau's use of watercolour by using a degradé effect in his fabrics - the lighter and darker shades in a single swathe of fabric referenced the effect of a colourwash on paper.

The effect was most noticeable on a creamy-coloured bubble-hem ballgown with black brushstrokes dashed across the skirt.

One can only wonder which lucky actress will have the privilege of wearing it the the Oscars next month - the couture shows are often considered a preview of what the A-list will wear to the event.

Christian Dior couture
Christian Dior couture
Christian Dior couture

All in the detail: Headpieces also had a retro feel to them, with fascinators and masks across the eyes lending the models an air of mystery

The headpieces also had a retro feel to them, with fascinators and masks across the eyes lending the models an air of mystery.

The looks were completed by Forties-style hair and make-up, with hair pinned up into twists and curls, and lips in eye-popping red.

Some models even had their eyebrows painted red, which was rather less Fifties, but chic in context nonetheless.

Restrained palette: Christian Dior haute couture

Restrained palette: Eye-popping red was set off by soft complimentary hues of black, teal, grey and taupe

For once, there was no huge coterie of A-listers to distract from the fashion - usually de rigueur at a show of this magnitude, though the attendance of fashion and film heavyweights Mario Testino and Spanish film director Pedro Almodovar was not to scoffed at.

Also among the front row guests at the Musée Rodin event were actresses Elena Anaya and Audrey Marnay, as well as Princess Siriwanwaree Nareerat of Thailand.

The chief executive of Christian Dior said he was optimistic about the label's future and that business trends were good.

Mr Matador: John Galliano takes his bow on the runway at the end of his haute couture show for Christian Dior

Mr Matador: John Galliano takes his bow on the runway at the end of his haute couture show for Christian Dior

'There is a good trend at the moment,' Sidney Toledano told reporters after the show today.

He added that the fashion house had performed better than expected in 2010, and that it had been a period of real growth for the company.

'It was more than just catching up.' he said.

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